Tuesday, November 11, 2008


I've always loved Lumut. Rustic and quaint it also was the prelude of spending some time bumming my ass on Pangkor island in the old Pan Pac hotel now known as the Pangkor Island Resort.

Bart was taking the new Volvo C30 up to Pangkor for a test drive so I tumpang-ed a ride as I also had friends who were organizing the Malaysian leg of the Powerman Series in Manjung near Lumut town so I thought I'd check it out.

Lumut can't escape the onslaught of development. The town and the surrounding districts are seeing rapid development which normally means at least one McDonalds, ugly Lego block shop lots and apartments BUT it seems like they seem to be be trying (wheather consciously or not) to blend in the new and the old.

The corner provision shop where I always seem to end up buying supplies.

What i liked about Lumut was literally it was a one street town but it also had the palm tree and light pole lined streets

The Powerman Duathalon, 9th November 2008 (Run 11km, Cycle 64km and run 10km)

I tell you I felt like the bastard love child of Shrek and Rosie O'Donnell! I have never seen so many fucking LEAN people in my LIFE!!!!!!!!!

However as you can see, the Powerman Series is an equal opportunity race.

The Outward Bound School, Teluk Batik

I love this place only because of the 10 days I spent here with the Malaysian Mild Seven Outdoor Quest in the early 2000s. I think it was 2001. It was fantastic! That's what I love about my job. How can you not love work when it entails getting on a boat and following athletes in kayaks into the open sea. Eagles follow the kayaks thinking they're fishing boats and the wind is in your face. Every day, after we had our early dinner at the OBS dining hall, EVERY FUKING DAY, we walk out and there is the most awesome sunset ever as the sun lit up the sky before retiring for the day!

It made me think of that scene from The Sandman comic - Lucifer (in human form) sits on a deck chair on a beach in Australia. An old man walks up to him sits down and tells him he's had a hard life, family all dead, he's got bad liver or something BUT any God who can make a sunset that stunning every day can't be all bad. As the old man walks away, Lucifer looks at the sunset and then looks up into the sky and says, "I give it to you, you bastard, THAT is not bad."

Kids near OBS. The bay is sadly changing. In the back ground you see another project to cater to the rich - The Lumut Marina project - bungalows and shop lots on reclaimed land. Fuck, there goes the neighbourhood.

Taman Paya Bakau

This was a surprise to me. It's slightly less than 10 minutes from Lumut town. Its not a big area but I thought it was really cool as they had constructed a walkway right smack in a mangrove forest. It was quite surreal as you feel like you're walking in the middle of the movie set of Kull or Lord of The Rings.

Beach at OBS

I will keep coming back to Lumut. As usual it's not the destination, it's the journey. It's driving past the endless padi fields somewhere before Sitiawan, the stopping and having teh tarik, curry puffs and goreng pisang at the little road side stalls, it's driving back along the coastal road ringed by tall coconut trees, looking at life in places that you occasionally read in the papers like Ijok, Kuala Selangor and Pasir Panjang. 

Lumut and Pangkor have provided many good memories, the stay at OBS, going there with the ex, taking the sudden random drive up once in a while and the old company made at least 2 company trips there. We got banned on the second stay as we ended up trashing the poolside bar, underwear and shorts ended up on the roof of the bar, puke in the pools, drains, bushes smelling of piss, etc.

I hope the progress of 'development' is slowed down just a tad. I selfishly want my old Lumut for just a bit longer.

Getting there : Take the North-South Highway and head north to Ipoh. Turn off at either Bidor or Tapah. Just follow signs that say Teluk Intan, Setiawan or Lumut. At Teluk Intan junction take a left (right takes you to Teluk Intan but can also lead back to Setiawan). Takes about 4 hours depending how many times you stop.

Alternative - take the dual carriage way coastal road. Head towards Kuala Selangor from Klang and look for the signs that say Ipoh, Setiawan, etc. Here traffic might suck if you get stuck behind lorries but you get to enjoy some of the Malaysian heartland. Takes about 3 and half hours depends on the traffic.

Restaurants in Lumut - Nothing much in town except for some nasi Kandar shops and a KFC with the slowest service in Malaysia! Two pubs at the end of town - Jook Joint Bistro and Rockafella (it was closed when I was there but was informed that they are still open for biz) Mainly frequented by the expat community from the port or naval base. Also a Italian restaurant on the same row as Jook Joint.

There are a fair bit of sea food places at Teluk Batik and along the roads before Lumut town.

PARKING -  The Lumut town council considers Saturday a full day for parking fees so don't just leave your car around after 1pm thinking they charge only for half a day. If you get a summon (as I did) you can pay it at the parking counter within the multi-level car park behind the bus stop. Its inside on the ground floor. (you can't see it from outside, it's somewhere in the middle)


S'wak said...

I've been to Teluk Batik on a number of occasion and I find it to be a very nice retreat. The trouble is, it's no longer a secret so on weekends you'd find the place swamped with visitors and the traffic jam going into and out of the place really takes the fun out of the trip.

Jun-E said...

Enjoyed this post and loved the first picture very much =)

Finally, a word verification that is actually a word! - pride. I think the word scrambler is finally learning English.

winniechan said...

You FEEL like the bastard love child of Shrek & Rosie O'Donnell? I thought you ARE the bastard love child of Shrek & Rosie O'Donnell =P

Nice blog Chindi... enjoyed the photos

Chindiana said...

S'wak! Yeah man, I took a drive there and they had constructed another park thing with arches and the like. Too many people but sadly the entire Teluk Batik is just a hive of development. I used to LOVE this area but it's going man. In a coupla years time and if the developers don't go under the area will be a playground for the rich.

Jun-E! Thanks! Hope it took some of the stress and grief living 'down under'. Yeah that shot is one of my all time favs as well.

Winnie Chan, how could you? If I"m anyone's love child it's Mother Theresa and Samuel L Jackson.
(Damn...there goes my 2009 CNY angpow...)